Rutabaga Hash with Onions and Crisp Bacon

• 4 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 3/4-in.-wide pieces (can be omited for vegetarian dish)
• Olive oil
• 1 1/2 pounds rutabagas, ends trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1/2-in. dice
• 1 medium yellow onion, cut into 1/2-in. dice
• 2 celery stalks, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
• 1 Anaheim chile, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-in. dice
• 1 small jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher or fine sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• Tabasco

Cook bacon in a 12-in. skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat until crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.

Measure fat in pan and add oil if needed to make 3 tbsp. Sauté rutabagas and onion in fat over medium-high heat until onion starts to soften, 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, cover tightly with lid or foil, and cook, stirring once, until rutabagas are tender when pierced, 7 to 12 minutes.

Stir in celery, chiles, salt, and pepper; cook uncovered, stirring frequently, until rutabagas are browned and celery and chiles are fairly tender, 7 to 10 minutes. Fold in cilantro and bacon. At the table, add Tabasco to taste.